by Pamela Siegel
Do you remember playing in your grandma’s jewelry box when you were a kid? Well, guess what? It’s just as much fun now! Even if your grandmother didn’t indulge you in that way, you can still join the continually fascinating world of costume jewelry collecting, where the pieces are as interesting to research as they are to wear.
What Exactly is Costume Jewelry?
Costume jewelry, also known as fashion jewelry, is adornment that doesn’t fall into the fine jewelry category. Whether mass-produced or artsier in nature, it is mainly defined by the materials used to create it, including non-precious metals, imitation stones, a variety of plastics, and other natural materials like wood, horn, leather, and shells.
Costume jewelry metals include:
Plated base metal. Base metal is sometimes called white metal or pot metal. Some pieces made during the 1930s were made without plating, but most costume jewelry designs are plated with gold or silver.
Gold-filled. Gold-filled refers to the process of bonding gold to base metal (although sometimes silver is used). These styles more closely resemble gold jewelry and are usually daintier in nature in comparison to other types of costume jewelry.
Sterling silver. Yes, many pieces of sterling silver jewelry fit into the costume jewelry category even though it’s a precious metal. Most of those are set with imitation stones. Pieces of sterling silver jewelry set with genuine stones are referenced as bridge jewelry – jewelry that bridges the gap between costume and fine jewelry. Vermeil (pronounced ver-may) jewelry falls into this category since it is sterling silver with gold plating.
Costume jewelry stones include:
Rhinestones. Rhinestones, sometimes referenced as crystals in contemporary costume jewelry, are made of glass and often simulate other types of gems like diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, and rubies. They have also been produced in a wide variety of other colors. Austria and Czechoslovakia, now the Czech Republic, are two countries widely associated with rhinestone production.
Glass cabochons. Cabochons are stones with flat backs and rounded tops. They come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and colors. Some imitate natural materials like turquoise and coral.
Specialty stones. Both handmade glass stones and molded glass specialty stones have been used in costume jewelry for centuries. These range from glass with different types of metals added to the formula to create unique colors to those with materials like foil encased in the glass to enhance their appearance. Some also have intricate patterns molded into the stone or out-of-the-ordinary sizes made for a specific brand.
Some of the plastics used in costume jewelry are:
Bakelite. This is one of the most popular types of plastic used in costume jewelry. It was invented in the 1920s and became a staple for jewelry manufacturing in the 1930s and ‘40s, with many pieces carved by hand during this era. Bakelite components were also used in jewelry thereafter.
Lucite. While Lucite is a trade name for a specific plastic formula invented in the 1930s, jewelry incorporating clear plastic is often referenced by this name. Many pieces made during the 1930s and ‘40s combined clear plastic with wood. Clear plastic jewelry of various types was popular in the decades following as well.
Resin. Resin has become a catchall word for many types of unidentified plastics that don’t fall into the Bakelite or Lucite categories. They are usually opaque-colored plastics. Some stones used in costume jewelry are made of resin as well.
Costume jewelry runs the gamut from pieces made during the 1800s to those being hand-crafted by artisans today. It also encompasses a wide array of styles ranging from statement-making rhinestones to examples closely imitating fine jewelry. Some pieces have been mass-produced, while other artisan designs are hand-crafted. It can also reflect the historical period in which it was produced, like those with Art Nouveau motifs made during the 1890s, patriotic jewelry produced during the World War II era, and pop art jewelry dating to the 1960s.
The main categories – all of which include desirable designs – are:
Antique costume jewelry. Jewelry qualifying for this category must be at least 100 years old. Some of the most popular designs are from the Victorian and Edwardian periods. Mourning jewelry, hairwork jewelry, and pieces made during the Arts & Crafts movement are also sought-after types of antique jewelry. Art Deco jewelry made during the 1920s can straddle the line between antique and vintage.
Vintage costume jewelry. Most selling venues categorize vintage as 20 years or older. Rhinestone jewelry and those made of plastics are two of the many types of vintage costume jewelry. When jewelry is marked with a brand like Trifari, Eisenberg, Miriam Haskell, Coro, Schiaparelli, etc., it fits into a subset called designer costume jewelry, so it’s important to check each piece carefully for signatures. Unmarked vintage costume jewelry can also be quite collectible, depending on the style.
Couture costume jewelry. This type of jewelry is associated with well-known couture houses like Chanel, Christian Dior, Gucci, etc., all of which have marketed jewelry alongside their clothing lines. These pieces also fall into the subset of designer costume jewelry. Couture jewelry of all ages can be quite valuable.
Contemporary costume jewelry. Costume jewelry doesn’t have to be antique or vintage to be considered collectible. Several artisans creating jewelry today have a collectible following. This includes Lawrence Vrba, Moans Couture, Iradj Moini, and Katerina Musetti, among several others. Even newer mass-produced costume jewelry like that designed by Heidi Daus and Jose and Maria Barrera have a following among collectors.
The Most Valuable Costume Jewelry
While it’s not made using precious materials, there are some costume jewelry designs that sell in the high hundreds or thousands. Many of these pieces were marketed by Trifari, Boucher, Eisenberg, and a handful of others during the golden age of costume jewelry design in the 1930s and ‘40s.
The people designing and crafting the jewelry during that period often moved over from fine jewelry production during the Great Depression. The superior design and fine craftsmanship are what make those pieces desirable. Because they sold for good sums when they were new and were never meant to be saved for decades, they’re also hard to find today.
Some other types of vintage costume jewelry are also extremely valuable. This includes certain Bakelite pieces and Mexican silver jewelry made in well-known workshops like those of William Spratling or Hector Aguilar. Schreiner of New York is another very collectible brand that produced jewelry from the 1930s through the ‘70s. Some sets of Miriam Haskell and Joseff of Hollywood jewelry can also sell in the thousands as can Chanel and Dior couture jewelry.
Keep in mind, however, that all the most desirable brands made jewelry over long periods of time, so not every piece marked with one of those potentially valuable names is worth big bucks. Each piece must be researched individually when valuing costume jewelry.
Where to Buy Collectible Costume Jewelry
Online venues like Ruby Lane and Etsy offer a vast variety of collectible costume jewelry readily available for purchase. Most of those pieces have been researched, and prices are set at the current market value.
Online estate sale auctions can also provide a treasure trove of collectible designs. Shopping estate jewelry listings offer a first glimpse at items from household liquidations just entering the secondary marketplace. There’s also the greater potential for finding bargains through the auction format, and some offer the option of picking up purchases rather than having them shipped.
You can also ferret out costume jewelry pieces shopping everywhere, from garage sales to thrift stores. In this vein, in-person estate sales also provide the opportunity to inspect jewelry personally before you buy. There’s also the chance to snap up a bargain for far less than what pieces originally sold for at retail, especially with high-quality contemporary and couture jewelry.
Ready to start shopping for collectible costume jewelry? Browse our auctions featuring jewelry on AuctionNinja.com.
Written by:
February 24, 2023 Updated 01:06 PM
As a freelance writer, Pamela Siegel covers lifestyle topics ranging from antiques and collectibles to interior design and everything around the home. Her work appears on The Spruce where she shared tips and research as the site’s antiques expert for many years. She also writes for House Digest, Kovels Antique Trader, Worthpoint, and Mashed. In addition to penning thousands of articles for online resources and print-based pubs, Siegel authored several books including “Warman’s Costume Jewelry” and “Buying & Seling Antiques and Collectibles on eBay.” She also shares her expertise with other magazine writers along with doing television, radio and podcast interviews. As often as possible, Siegel loves shopping flea markets and estate sales for her next great find, home decorating, foodie pursuits, and exploring the world on cruise ships.
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