What’s better than the sparkle of gemstones and the gleam of precious metals? A great story to go along with them, of course. Whether you’re drawn to vintage estate jewelry or prefer antique pieces, sharing stories about what makes each piece unique – from historical significance to estate sale provenance – is one of the best parts about acquiring and wearing pre-owned jewelry.
If you’re just getting your feet wet or just need a little refresher, here are some things to keep in mind as you shop for antique and vintage fine jewelry
What Qualifies as Fine Jewelry?
Fine jewelry is made with gemstones and precious metals. The stones can range from diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and sapphires to lesser-value gemstones. Those, also called semi-precious stones, include amethyst, topaz, garnet, peridot, and citrine. When any of these stones are set in gold or platinum, they’re called fine jewelry. If they’re set in sterling silver, that’s usually deemed bridge jewelry since the price point bridges the gap between fine jewelry and costume jewelry
Other natural materials can also be set in fine jewelry. High-quality turquoise, coral, pearls, rock crystal, and even wood have been combined with precious metals by clever jewelry designers and artisans. The key is the use of platinum or at least 14-karat gold for settings in those designs.
How Does High Jewelry Differ?
High jewelry, regardless of the age, is viewed as the best of the best by upper-echelon collectors. These pieces often incorporate rare gemstones or pearls with superbly crafted settings using 18-karat gold or platinum to highlight them. High jewelry is oftentimes associated with well-known French jewelry houses like Cartier or Van Cleef & Arpels or jewelers like David Webb or Tiffany & Co. in the United States.
Dating and Identifying Antique and Vintage Fine Jewelry
Many classic jewelry designs have been produced on repeat over the past two centuries. You might have to look at the way stones are cut, how the settings are constructed, or integrated motifs to get a feel for the age. For instance, old mine-cut diamonds were used extensively during the Georgian and Victorian periods. But because stones were sometimes reset into bespoke jewelry later, looking at the sum of the parts is imperative.
With that said, there are some distinctive periods to keep in mind when you’re shopping. Each one has its own unique set of characteristics that can help you learn to accurately date and identify antique and vintage fine jewelry.
The main periods of fine jewelry design are:
Georgian. Jewelry from this period was made from the late 1700s through the early 1800s. The dominating stones were either colored for daytime wear or diamonds in the evening since they sparkle under candlelight. These pieces are generally identified by the types of stones used, such as rose-cut or old mine-cut diamonds, and the way they are set into the metal. Repoussé designs and cannetille wire work were used in metalwork. True Georgian jewelry is very popular among antique jewelry collectors and is not easy to find.
Victorian. Because Queen Victoria’s reign was so long, the Victorian period is broken down into three subsets. Here are some key details about each one:
Early Victorian, also known as the “Romantic Period,” pieces date between 1837 and 1861. Some styles carried over from Georgian jewelry, including hairwork, but mass production was also becoming more commonplace toward the end of the period.
Mid-Victorian jewelry was made from about 1861 through 1885 and is referenced as the “Grand Period.” Mourning jewelry was worn during this timeframe after Prince Albert’s death. Cameos became popular, as did archeologically inspired Etruscan designs.
Late-Victorian jewelry was produced from 1885 until Queen Victoria’s death in 1901. Jewelry historians also call this the “Aesthetic Period.” Other subsets of Victorian jewelry, such as Art Nouveau, fit into this timeframe. Pieces with natural motifs like flowing vines, symbolic flowers, and jewelry exhibiting a belief in superstitions are admired among collectors. Black jewelry was worn as a fashion statement as well as for mourning.
Edwardian. This period lasted only from 1901 through the mid-1910s during King Edward VII’s reign. Jewelry with more delicate features, such as filigree made of white metals set with diamonds and pearls, was fashionable. Elegant bows, laurels, ribbons, and garlands were frequently incorporated into metalwork. Garland was used so often, in fact, that this is sometimes called the “Garland Era” in jewelry history.
Art Deco. Although the term wasn’t coined until decades later, Art Deco jewelry started emerging shortly after World War I ended and remained popular with fashionable ladies through the mid-1930s. For most collectors, jewelry from this period represents the “Roaring ‘20s.” This is one of the most popular eras in jewelry collecting as the geometric designs, bold colors, and use of contrasting black enameling are quite eye-catching.
Retro. This period emerged around 1935 and lasted through the mid-1940s. The popularity of yellow and rose gold increased during this era. Although some detailing from the Art Deco period carried over, geometric designs largely gave way to pieces with bolder waves and curls in the metalwork. Bows were also popular in Retro jewelry, although they were chunkier and included more metalwork than those made in prior eras. Semi-precious gemstones also became more prevalent as embellishments.
1945-1960. This period in jewelry history is less defined than others preceding it. Styles started out more subdued and grew bolder with the prosperity of the 1950s. Modernism was often reflected in jewelry design and as more studio jewelers set up shop during the ‘50s and continued to work into the 1960s. Matching complete sets of jewelry, also known as “parures,” came back into fashion during this timeframe after a hiatus spanning several decades.
1960-1975. Designer jewelry came to the forefront during the ‘60s, with names like Webb introducing popular styles and Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. creating bold, colorful, and whimsical fine jewelry. The influence of international jewelry design gained momentum, including pieces inspired by East Indian and Islamic cultures. Gold jewelry was also in demand, especially pieces produced in Italian workshops.
Contemporary. Since the mid-1970s, jewelry designs have often repeated older styles in whole or in part. Designers inspired by Georgian, Art Deco, or other periods will include related motifs in their work. Other fine jewelers have been influenced by ancient jewelry and incorporate Etruscan, Egyptian, or Renaissance elements into their designs. The freeform nature of Modernism has continued to influence jewelers in the 21st century as well.
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Valuing Older Fine Jewelry
One of the most important things to keep in mind about antique and vintage jewelry is that values aren’t based on intrinsic materials alone. In many instances, antique and vintage pieces are prized for their craftsmanship, association with a well-known company or designer, or the style even more than the sum of their precious metal and gemstone parts.
That said, researching antique and vintage jewelry prices are accomplished by looking at what the same or a very similar piece has sold for in the secondary marketplace. With bespoke jewelry designs and most antique jewelry, this can be trickier in comparison to mass-produced adornment. When estimating values, trained appraisers look for comparables – close designs made of similar materials dating to the same period.
Some pieces marketed by well-known jewelry houses were made in close variations, making them a bit easier to research. Just make sure that the values you’re looking at for similar wares are sold values rather than asking prices. Sellers sometimes mark their pieces high, hoping for a better result than what materializes when the jewelry finally sells.
Where to Buy Antique and Vintage Fine Jewelry
If you’re in the market for the top echelon of fine antique and vintage jewelry, many big-name auction houses are selling online now. They regularly offer high-end names like Boucheron and Mauboussin and superb designs produced by many other fine jewelry houses. That’s the stuff of dreams for most jewelry lovers.
Luckily, you can find alternatives through online estate sale auctions in a wide range of price points. Shopping estate jewelry, in fact, can often yield items priced lower than the original owners paid when pieces were new or first purchased as collectibles. The array of unique designs is also potentially better than visiting retail outlets currently selling fine jewelry.
Prefer to try your secondhand jewelry on and examine it for flaws before you buy? In-person estate sales can be a great alternative to shopping online when it comes to all types of jewelry.
Ready to start shopping for antique and vintage fine jewelry? Browse our auctions featuring jewelry on AuctionNinja.com.
As a freelance writer, Pamela Siegel covers lifestyle topics ranging from antiques and collectibles to interior design and everything around the home. Her work appears on The Spruce where she shared tips and research as the site’s antiques expert for many years. She also writes for House Digest, Kovels Antique Trader, Worthpoint, and Mashed. In addition to penning thousands of articles for online resources and print-based pubs, Siegel authored several books including “Warman’s Costume Jewelry” and “Buying & Seling Antiques and Collectibles on eBay.” She also shares her expertise with other magazine writers along with doing television, radio and podcast interviews. As often as possible, Siegel loves shopping flea markets and estate sales for her next great find, home decorating, foodie pursuits, and exploring the world on cruise ships.
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